Jeep Air Complete Air Conditioning Retro Fit for 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ
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Factory Appearance: System works with existing climate controls and does not affect dashboard or exterior appearance, meaning the classic YJ look remains intact.
Headache-Free Wiring: All wiring connects to existing factory plugs with no splicing necessary.
R-134a Ready: System is ready to be charged with commonly available R-134a refrigerant (not included).
Warranty: Buy with confidence knowing this air conditioning kit is backed by a 1-Year Limited Warranty.
You don’t miss it during the cooler months, but when summer hits and your Wrangler YJ doesn’t have factory air conditioning, you’ll wish you’d installed the Complete Air Conditioning Retro Fit kit to keep cool.
Installation is straightforward, requiring minimal drilling and no wire splicing necessary. This kit comes with all parts — including pulleys and belts — needed for installation and can be charged with readily available R-134a refrigerant (not included). When the top down and doors off approach isn’t enough to keep you cool, you can count on the Complete Air Conditioning kit during those dog days of summer.
Level 4Experts OnlyR-12 or R-134a ready! (NOT INCLUDED)
No splicing, all wiring connects to factory plugs.
Some driling required, using factory stamping points.
Designed for Jeeps with V Belt. Will not work with Serpentine Belt.
OE StyleUnderdash Evaporator Unit
OE Style Condenser
OE Style Drier
Expansion Valve
Compressor & Mount
Binary Switch
Hose Kit
Belts & Pulleys
Mounting Hardware
Jeep Wrangler (YJ)
- 1990 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)
- 1989 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)
- 1988 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)
- 1987 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)
Jeep Air Complete Air Conditioning Retro Fit Options
| Part Number | Catalog # | Price | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CK-919525A | 15005-1020 | 91-95 YJ with 2.5L I-4 Engine | Idler Pulley Passenger Side-Power Steering | $1,129.99 |
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Jeep Air Complete Air Conditioning Retro Fit Reviews
Excellent product.
1) I changed Water pump, thermostat, rad cap & fan clutch while I had radiator out and was installing the compressor.
2) Despite the instructions, I would suggest mounting the drier prior to putting the compressor and radiator back in. I would also install your Evap and run your lines to your drier before screwing in place. I had to move mine because after mounting, I found Out the Evap to drier Line was too short for where I placrf the drier.
3) add an electric pusher to the condenser while doing the install, if you think you’ll want one. (I didnt want one) otherwise it’s a pain to go back and add one.
3) for the larger evap hose I drilled 1-3/8” hole instead of the prescribed 1 1/4” Hole. The grommet and hose fit better, i used pure silicon lube to get it to slide in.
4) you will have to extend the cig lighter wire when you relocate the ashtray/lighter.
5) if you change out the 5amp. Acc fuse with a 30 amp (top right most fuse) then you can put a male spade connector on the blower motor wire and insert it into the top right most female connector on the fuse panel to wire it in.
6) I was able to draw a 30” vacuum and have it hold for 30 minutes prior to charging. I did have to go back and snug several fittings in order to achieve total seal and ability to hold vacuum.
7) the compressor wire can be run in the oem large plastic wire loom that runs across the back firewall. I built A bullet connector extension out of .176” male/female bullet connectors from autozone so I could Run the wire inside that loom; it was too short otherwise.
8) the system used exactly 2 x 12oz. Cans of 100% r134a refrigerant. DON’T USE THE STUFF WITH DYE, ADDITIONAL OIL OR “COOLING ENHANCING” CHEMICAL IN IIT! IT CAN CLOG
YOUR EXPANSION VALVE.
9) as a rule of thumb your high side pressure should be around 2.5x The ambient temperature. If it’s too high when you’ve only put in 24oz of refrigerant then you generally aren’t getting enough cooling accross the condenser and may need a aux fan or a new mechanical fan clutch. It may also be as simple as getting it out of the garage so it can move more fresh/no stale air across the condenser. At 90 - 100 degrees ambient temperature you should be getting 225 - 250 psi of pressure on then high side.
10) I found that the biggest enemy of a/c in my Jeep is air leaks, I had to install floor mats/floor drain seals, new inner shifter boot and new a-pillar seals to minimize leakage of hot air into the cabin. I run a soft top, so will always have some, but it performs great after sealing the air leaks.
great product, would go a little larger on the holes when installing.
Awesome blows cold and easy installation make sure you evacuate system before charging