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Justin C.
Stock 2013 JK Moab, adding AEV spacer / leveling kit….. should I stick with stock ride height shocks? use adapters or go longer and avoid the brackets?
When adding an AEV spacer or leveling kit to a stock 2013 JK Moab, you have a couple of solid paths depending on your budget and how you plan to use the vehicle. Here is a breakdown of your options:
Option 1: Stock Ride Height Shocks + Extension Brackets
How it works: You can stick with stock-ride-height shocks and use shock extension/drop brackets.
Pros: This is the most cost-effective approach. It retains your factory ride quality and ensures your shocks don't top out prematurely at full droop.
Cons: The brackets hang slightly lower underneath, which can marginally reduce ground clearance or catch on extreme obstacles, though it's rarely an issue for light trails or daily driving.
Option 2: Go Longer and Avoid the Brackets
How it works: Purchase shocks specifically sized for a 2-inch lift (avoiding extension brackets entirely).
Pros: Clean look with no hanging brackets, and true longer-travel shocks will allow for better suspension articulation off-road.
Cons: You must ensure your bump stop spacing matches. If you don't use proper bump stop extensions with longer shocks, the shock body can bottom out and damage internal components before the suspension hits the factory bump stops.
Recommendation
If you want a simple, budget-friendly setup that maintains factory ride characteristics for daily driving and light trail use, sticking with stock-height Quadratec Maximum Duty Nitro 8.0 Shocks and utilizing rear shock extension brackets is a hassle-free route. However, if you want maximum suspension performance and articulation out of your leveled JK, upgrading to a true 2-inch lift shock kit paired with correct bump stop extensions is the cleaner, more robust approach.
Option 1: Stock Ride Height Shocks + Extension Brackets
How it works: You can stick with stock-ride-height shocks and use shock extension/drop brackets.
Pros: This is the most cost-effective approach. It retains your factory ride quality and ensures your shocks don't top out prematurely at full droop.
Cons: The brackets hang slightly lower underneath, which can marginally reduce ground clearance or catch on extreme obstacles, though it's rarely an issue for light trails or daily driving.
Option 2: Go Longer and Avoid the Brackets
How it works: Purchase shocks specifically sized for a 2-inch lift (avoiding extension brackets entirely).
Pros: Clean look with no hanging brackets, and true longer-travel shocks will allow for better suspension articulation off-road.
Cons: You must ensure your bump stop spacing matches. If you don't use proper bump stop extensions with longer shocks, the shock body can bottom out and damage internal components before the suspension hits the factory bump stops.
Recommendation
If you want a simple, budget-friendly setup that maintains factory ride characteristics for daily driving and light trail use, sticking with stock-height Quadratec Maximum Duty Nitro 8.0 Shocks and utilizing rear shock extension brackets is a hassle-free route. However, if you want maximum suspension performance and articulation out of your leveled JK, upgrading to a true 2-inch lift shock kit paired with correct bump stop extensions is the cleaner, more robust approach.
Melanie B.
I purchased a 2009 wrangler back in December and am completely new to off road modifications. I have 35 inch tires, but no idea how to guess what sort of lift kit I might have (if any) in addition to those short of taking it to a shop and putting up with their sales pitch… Is there a particular aftermarket object in the suspension to look for/measure?
Welcome to the Jeep family! Getting a pre-modified Jeep is a great way to start, but it can definitely feel like a puzzle. Since you have 35-inch tires on a 2009 JK, you likely have some form of lift; on a stock 2007–2018 Wrangler, 35s will usually rub against the fenders or air dam during even a simple turn.
You can identify your lift height right now in your driveway with a tape measure—no shop required.
The "Gold Standard" Measurement
The most reliable way to check for a lift on a JK is to measure the front coil springs while the Jeep is parked on level ground.
The Rule: A stock JK front coil spring (under the weight of the vehicle) measures almost exactly 12 inches.
The Math: Measure from the top of the spring (where it meets the frame) to the bottom (where it sits on the axle). Subtract 12 from your measurement.
Example: If your spring measures 14.5 inches, you have a 2.5-inch lift.
What to Look For Underneath
Besides measuring, you can spot "clues" to the type of lift you have:
Coil Spacers (Budget Boost): Look at the top of your springs. If you see a thick black rubber or polyurethane "puck" sitting above the spring, you have a spacer lift. These are usually 1 to 2 inches.
Aftermarket Springs: If the springs are a color other than black (like silver, red, or blue) or have a manufacturer’s logo (like Teraflex, Rock Krawler, or AEV), you have a full suspension lift.
Bump Stop Extensions: Look inside the front coil spring. If there is a "puck" bolted to the bottom plate that the rubber bump stop hits, that is a clear sign of a lift designed for larger tires.
You can identify your lift height right now in your driveway with a tape measure—no shop required.
The "Gold Standard" Measurement
The most reliable way to check for a lift on a JK is to measure the front coil springs while the Jeep is parked on level ground.
The Rule: A stock JK front coil spring (under the weight of the vehicle) measures almost exactly 12 inches.
The Math: Measure from the top of the spring (where it meets the frame) to the bottom (where it sits on the axle). Subtract 12 from your measurement.
Example: If your spring measures 14.5 inches, you have a 2.5-inch lift.
What to Look For Underneath
Besides measuring, you can spot "clues" to the type of lift you have:
Coil Spacers (Budget Boost): Look at the top of your springs. If you see a thick black rubber or polyurethane "puck" sitting above the spring, you have a spacer lift. These are usually 1 to 2 inches.
Aftermarket Springs: If the springs are a color other than black (like silver, red, or blue) or have a manufacturer’s logo (like Teraflex, Rock Krawler, or AEV), you have a full suspension lift.
Bump Stop Extensions: Look inside the front coil spring. If there is a "puck" bolted to the bottom plate that the rubber bump stop hits, that is a clear sign of a lift designed for larger tires.
Joshua K.
Would a hydro or nitro be better for a jeep that has a lot of weight on it?
For a Jeep Wrangler JK that carries a lot of weight—such as heavy steel bumpers, a winch, tire carriers, or armor—Nitro (Nitrogen-charged) shocks are the better choice.
The Quadratec Maximum Duty Nitro 8.0 Shocks are specifically designed to handle the increased load and higher center of gravity of a modified Jeep. Nitrogen-charged shocks use high-pressure gas to keep the internal oil from foaming (aeration) during heavy use, providing consistent damping and better control under stress.
Hydro (Hydraulic) shocks are better suited for lightweight, stock, or daily-driven Jeeps where comfort is the primary goal. They provide a softer, "plush" ride but can feel "mushy" or uncontrolled on a Jeep that is heavily loaded down with gear.
The Quadratec Maximum Duty Nitro 8.0 Shocks are specifically designed to handle the increased load and higher center of gravity of a modified Jeep. Nitrogen-charged shocks use high-pressure gas to keep the internal oil from foaming (aeration) during heavy use, providing consistent damping and better control under stress.
Hydro (Hydraulic) shocks are better suited for lightweight, stock, or daily-driven Jeeps where comfort is the primary goal. They provide a softer, "plush" ride but can feel "mushy" or uncontrolled on a Jeep that is heavily loaded down with gear.
Carl D.
Interested in your stock Hydro Shocks fro my stock JK 2dr. If I end up putting a replacement front bumper and winch on it , then a 1.5-2 inch front leveling kit wil these shocks still work
No. Stock model are correct from 0" to 1". Running 1.75 or 2" will call for the next longer application. Thanks for your inquiry.
DANIEL A.
All of my driving is on road. Would these shocks be overkill and too stiff for my 2011 Unlimited Sport with no lift?
A Hydro shock would be engineered more for the type of driving it sounds like you may be doing if predominantly on road and with stock ride height. A Nitro will have firmer quicker rebound for added road feel but it can be a little more jarring than a Hydro shocks reaction to varying road conditions. Thanks for your inquiry.
RON M.
Do them come with any hardware? Bolts, upper Pin for rears?
Hardware for shock mounting is included. Thanks for your inquiry.